Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and tourists alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, Unesco designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a exclusive roster of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it joins a global network of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "demonstrates its deep-rooted food heritage and dynamic food ecosystem," according to a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 cities around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this time-honored city arrives as little surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the limelight for what has perennially characterized its essence: an profound devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a constant conversation from waking up until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and raised to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was created to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates fresh harvests but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on countless corners, there are little shops and kiosks – hidden gems that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and involved. The artisan beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however express concern that their children are unwilling to master the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will inspire more people around the world to explore these tales and visit the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.