🔗 Share this article Each Cook Must Learn Here’: Modest Turkish Eatery Earns 4th on Ranking of London’s Leading Food Spots. Whenever curating a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee familiar high-end venues. Yet, tucked near the top among these culinary titans is a simple salonu situated in a distant part of north London. An Unexpected Honour The small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. The honour has left the family totally shocked. “I’m completely surprised,” remarks the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their small place achieving such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list. A Appeal of Modesty The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its former character. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner. A Star Offering: Tantuni In the end, it’s all about the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender quality. It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside. The wrap is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together. Other Than the Classic Tantuni Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”. For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet profile. Outranking the Titans Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations. Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can cost many times that figure. A Philosophy of Warmth The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner. “I believe what is most important is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.” The philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”. A Journey of Hard Work Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son. Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort. “My mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares. A Recognition for the People The restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate beyond its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this gastronomic triumph.